Saturday 23 June 2007

In the Cyclades





Finally back to civilization, sorry for the delay in replying to anyone but this is the first time we have been able to get an internet connection since we posted the last update. So where have we been hiding?

Well we spent a few more days on Milos and we took Tiamat out for a day to the South of the island to see the rock formations and coves. Whilst it was nice to just sit on the quay and chill we decided we had better move on whilst the weather was good so after five days on Milos we left.

There was very little wind so had to motor to the island of Poliagos where we found a beautiful, tiny, secluded bay where we were the only boat there. Heaven!! It was so nice and tranquil that we stayed there two days lazing around and swimming. Only thing that disturbed the peace and quite was the bleating of the goats on the shore.

From there we travelled on to the island of Folegandros where we stayed at anchor in the small harbour for the night and then onto Santorini.

Santorini is made up of two islands that basically form the crater rim of a gigantic volcano 6 miles long by 4 miles wide that has been filled with water. The sides rise sheer out of the sea to 300m and drop away below the water for a further 300m. Perched on top of these cliffs there are a couple of towns, with white domed houses, the largest of which is Thira. In the middle there are two small low lying islands, a black mass of cinder and lava that are the volcanic plug of the volcano.

We motored into & round the ‘crater’ an incredible sight, awesome! Because the sides are so sheer there is no possibility of anchoring there to visit the town and normally you have to come by ferry from a neighbouring island. However as the weather was calm we managed to find a ledge off one of the centre islands that was shallow and we anchored there for lunch. We then decided as the wind hadn’t got up and our little anchorage seemed safe, that we would take the chance and stay there for the night.

So there we were anchored in the centre, on the plug of the volcano, surrounded by cinders and lava. We were the only boat there and we watched the sun set and turn the massive cliffs red. Oh by the way did I mention that the volcano is still active and the water sulphurous!

After a quite and peaceful night we decided it was best to get out of Santorini so headed north and anchored in a sandy bay on the south coast of Ios. Spent the day there swimming and relaxing.

The following day we sailed further north to the unspoilt island of Iraklia and tied up on the fishing quay in the islands one and only port. It is a beautiful island that so far has been relatively untouched by tourism although the ferries have started to call there so things might change. At present there are a couple of Tavernas and a few places offering accommodation but little else. Once you get away from the fishing village and get into the centre of the islands nothing has changed in hundreds of years, it’s still wild and mostly inaccessible. We found the place wonderful and peaceful and spent three days there.

We then moved on to Naxos where we are now. We are in the marina in Naxos town and it’s the exact opposite of Iraklia, very busy and full of tourists. It does have a nice side though and we spent yesterday investigating the old walled town on the hill and the Archaeological museum, which has some very old and amazing statues, pottery and jewellery from the 6th century BC.

On a headland there are the remains of a temple to Apollo and it’s a great place to watch the sunset which have been stunning each evening.

We are really enjoying the summer and the Greek islands. The weather has been wonderful since we got here, it is so HOT its impossible to be out in the sun between 1200 & 1600, its over 35C in the shade everyday and the winds have been light. The water is so clear and blue, just beautiful.

Having done the islands in the south we are now working our way north and west before the Meltemi sets in with a vengeance. If the weather holds we plan to stay out in the islands for another month.

Anyway enough for now, will post the next update in about a couple of weeks when we next get internet access.

Hope you are all well and we think of you all often.

Take care.
Duncan & Kim

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